‘1,000 Miles up the Amazon on the Hilary’

Extracts from the Booth Line brochure for 1932

            “If a tramcar started from London or Liverpool and made a circle of 11,800 miles at a charge of twopence a mile, the travelling public would be amazed at both the achievement and the price. Yet this is exactly what has been accomplished; only a magnificent liner takes the place of the tramcar, and the charge of about twopence a mile includes not only transport but the services and cuisine of a first-class hotel.

            “A cruise on an ocean liner is not only a new innovation, but when 2,000 of these miles are accomplished in a luxuriously fitted 7,000 ton vessel on the great Amazon – the river of mystery – and the heart of the South American continent is penetrated through the equatorial forests of Brazil without a change of cabin from the time of leaving Liverpool to the day of the return to the Mersey, then it becomes not only unique as a cruise, but also a historic achievement in maritime transport and luxurious travel.

            “Days are spent in quaint cities. Curious natives in the palm thatch dwellings of their jungle homes are passed at many points. Hours speed by swiftly in gliding on tropical rivers through forests of vivid colouring alive with bright plumed birds and gorgeous butterflies.

            “However, before this wonderland of Amazonia is entered there are scenes of beauty and enjoyment under the blue skies of Portugal , amid the romantic mountains of Madeira and on tropical seas where gales are almost unknown and the broad sunlit ocean is ruffled only by the fresh trade wind and the shoals of flying fish.

            “These distant lands, seas and rivers of beauty, warmth and mystery can be reached and enjoyed on the comfortably seated, broad decks, or in the palatial staterooms of a 7,000-ton liner, the specially equipped Royal Mail Steamer Hilary.

            “When the island of Madeira disappears in the deep blue of the sea and sky, muslin dresses and white drill suits make their first appearance on the decks. Delightful days of rest and pleasure, deck sports and reading, are spent; interspersed with moonlight nights of concerts, dances and lectures. New friendships, new scenes, new thoughts – away from the bustle, hum and smoke of great cities.

            “From out of the tropical haze has appeared a low shore. It is the first glimpse of the mysterious Amazon which has already changed, with its outflow, the colour of the sea around from deep blue to pale yellow-green.

            “Soon we are in the Para River , one of the mouths of the mighty Amazon, here nearly 200 miles broad but filled with forest-clad islands. Then the great ship, which has brought us across the Equator into the Southern Hemisphere, comes to a momentary rest for official visits from the authorities of the Port of Para – the gateway to the Amazon.

            “The Hilary penetrates further into the heartland of Brazil . The immense tropical forest is all around and natives in their dugout canoes cease paddling to gaze in awe at the huge vessel towering above their frail craft.

            “There is a great mystery in the Amazonian night. Scarcely has the sun dis-appeared in golden glory behind the interminable walls of the forest, before all around is plunged into darkness. Troops of howling monkeys hold a conversation before retiring. Sometimes the indigo vault is ablaze with the lightning from soundless electric storms.

            “The town of Obidos is passed during the night. Somewhere in this comparatively narrow section of the river the Hilary often passes a sister ship coming downstream. The occasion is one for saluting the house flag.

            “Some nine miles from Manaus the Hilary leaves the main stream of the Amazon and enters the Rio Negro . The meeting of the waters of these two giants provides a scene of extraordinary interest. As its name implies, the Negro is comprised of blue-black water, and this forms huge dark patches and miniature whirlpools in the middle of the Amazonian flood. So distinct is the cleavage that the bows of the ship are floating in the dark water whilst the stern is still supported by the yellow of the Amazon proper.

            “There appears to be a certain rivalry between Para and Manaus as to which town shall give the more hearty welcome to those who cruise on the Hilary. For whereas Para welcomes the ship with rockets and shots fired in the air, Manaus sends a band onto the quay and residents appear en masse with cheers, spotlessly clean white suits, straw hats and immense bouquets of flowers.

            “It is easy to write lightly of this hearty welcome, but when one grips the hands of Englishmen in this isolated town, a thousand miles from civilisation – and yet, like an oasis in the desert, possessed of all modern conveniences such as electric light, trams, theatres, cafes and daily newspapers – there is a feeling of pride because English, Scots and Irishmen have had no small share in the achievement.

            “ Manaus is a clean town and one is not afraid to eat its food or drink its water. No one could remain long on the ship, or be lonely in hospitable Manaus .

            “The leave takings from this remote town are mingled with regret. There is a feeling of sadness as the end of the outward cruise is reached, at a distance of over 5,000 miles from Liverpool , and the Hilary turns her bows downstream.

            “The same course is followed on the homeward journey and time ashore is usually available at Para, Madeira, Lisbon and Oporto for completing the work of sightseeing. Fancy dress balls on the decorated decks, concerts in the music room and open-air dances lend enchantment to tropical nights.

            “When the Hilary returns to the  broad and busy River Mersey, and this unique cruise is drawing to a close, the traveller will feel that he has been away in fairyland, so many and so unusual have been the sights, sounds and sensations. The Amazon is a river of mystery and provides food for thought and romance long after trips to other lands have faded from memory.”